Downtown is pretty.
Not pretty like a flower, but more anthropologically. As a starting mark, the bums. We walk down the graffitied sidewalk stepping over tree grates filled with cigarette butts and the legs of a black man passed out blocking the way. This corner smells like piss and I suggest we find higher ground or a bookstore for refuge. The bookstore smells like spices, and because it is a
used bookstore, like a thousand unique bookworms, this one a young hippie using Horoscope (Pisces) cologne, this one old, wrinkled and smelling of the same toilet water she's used for 40 years.
Back in the real world, a woman asks for money in a voice rasping from Marlboros, her face sagging with poverty and humiliation. Coldly we pass and don't make eye contact. Head for the Pearl.
I think of the unemployment/handout line near the bridge entrance and twenty or thirty men bunched together, some carrying tents, or nothing, or clothes, or with shopping carts full of bags and bottles, stooping over the wire mesh to protect the precious goods. Eventually the doors open, they're in line for food stamps and we're in the clean streets.